Costa Brava

We felt brave heading out to the "Brave Coast" when we woke up to a thunderstorm on the day we had scheduled for sea kayaking. But our guide, a Brit named Daniel from the same company that had led us on the Pyrenees hike, was confident we would find some way to entertain ourselves on the Costa Brava.

However, no matter how far north we drove, and how many kayak rental companies he called, kayaking along the rocky coves of the Costa Brava was beginning to look grim: One rental company thought the seas were too rough, and another, even after the weather did begin to clear, thought nobody would be renting so there was no point in opening.

We decided to head out on a hike along the same coast, a hike we were assured would take us along beautiful views and uninhabited coves for swimming and snorkeling. This was mostly true, but Daniel also seemed a bit lost and forgetful along the way. (At one point, Arthur noted that we could have bought sandwiches and gotten lost on a hike on our own, for a lot less than 90 euros each.) But the thunderstorm had cleared the air and lowered the temperature, so that the hike was quite spectacular. Here are some pictures:

Closed kayak-rental stand.

Empty beach: a rare sight on coastal Spain. Only on a day that started with thunderstorms.

Dan, our fearless leader, ordering sandwiches. (Anna was a little cold and wrapped herself in a towel. The rest of us thought it was sacrilege to complain of the cold, after so much heat!!)

They got the perfect spot. Does the crystal sparkle of the Mediterranean come through in this photo? It was spectacular. Almost wish I had arranged this version of the tour of the Costa Brava.

But this version was also fun: a beach full of (mostly French) tourists, snorkeling, swimming, and sunbathing (but do all the women here have to look like supermodels? Tan, thin, beautiful, AND topless??!!! Fat, white, and American feels a bit out of place here).

Alex and I started out small, by climbing onto, and then jumping off of, the clump of rocks to the left. But once Dan returned with more supplies for our by-the-seat-of-his-pants, alternative-to-kayaking tour, he and Alex climbed up to the tallest rock on the right.

Here they contemplate the wisdom of jumping....

and jump!

By the time I swam over, they had both agreed the highest spot was nerve shattering, and maybe this lower spot was more sensible.

I agreed, so I jumped, too!

There goes Alex again.

Anna snorkeling. There were a few fish to see, but not what you would find in Hawaii.

The real reason it is called the "Brave Coast" is that the rocks and wind made it so dangerous for ships.

At last, a return to civilization...

...and well-earned treats.

I had thought perhaps I was projecting, on the hike with the two Australians and the Russian-Israeli-Spanish guide, that I had heard a sigh of relief when we noted that we are Obama supporters. But there was no room for speculation with Dan, our British guide on this trip---I think he actually said, "Oh good." Remember the hope in 2008 that Obama could improve the view of the U.S. around the world, after the Bush years? There is no doubt for me that he has.

Gramma and Alex depart tomorrow. I am so relieved I still have several days left. I'm not ready to go home.